We have found that there is so much to do in Turkey that we often need "time out" to recover from overload. So writing our blog is a way in which we "digest" our trip and regenerate our energy levels.
The map below gives you an idea of the size of Turkey - it's 2.5 (2+1/2) times bigger than Italy! A total area of 780,580 sq km.
Background information:
The following define the area: the Black Sea (north), the Aegean Sea (west), Arabian deserts (south) and bordered by Greece, Bulgaria, Georgia, Armenia, Iran, Iraq and Syria. The ancients called the landmass protruding from Asia into the eastern Mediterrean Sea ANATOLIA (the motherland). The classical Romans called the area , ASIA MINOR. In 1923 under Ataturk, the country became TURKIYE (the land of the Turks).
As Turkey is the dividing line betwen the Orient and the Occident it has been the causeway/battlefield for many power struggles: the Persians crossed towards the west, Alexander the Great extended his empire to the east leaving an indelible Hellenistic stamp, the Romans saw it as their granary and Caesar's famous words "Veni. Vidi. Vici." ("I came. I saw. I conquered.") were uttered east of Anakara in Anatolia.
Over the next 1000 years, Anatolia became th nucleus of the Byzantine Empire. Its capital, Constantinople, was magnificent and here first Christianity, then Islam flourished. Anatolia was the most politically and culturally influential place on the planet for +-2000 years.
The Ottomans were defeated in World War I. Anatolia was carved up, but the Turks regained and remoulded Anatolia. This gave modern Turkey a different role in the 20th century: possible membership of the European Union and Western-styled economics and liberalism within an Islamic, Eastern framework, make Turkey a bridge between east and west. Their tourist trade is flourishing with more that 7 million people (this includes Mrad and Inge!!!) visiting during June/July.
2010.06.09
LUFTHANSA. Depart @ 18:55 from Madrid to Frankfurt, flight LH4415. We were re-routed to Stuttgart due to weather. Mrad found out what the new arrangements were.
We were bussed to Frankfurt from Stuttgart and arrived at the Holiday Inn at 02:30. Later that morning, Holiday Inn served their wonderful breakfast.
After a short night's sleep in Frankfurt's Holiday Inn, we departed from Frankfurt @ 13:30 to Istanbul, landed there at 16:00, took the Metro and tram to Sultanahmet area and found Andy and Wieske at Best Island Hotel (as planned!!)
It was wonderful to see them!
2010.06.10-11
We spent some time planning the following 12 days with the help of Ali from Mavi.
After that we wandered through old Istanbul.
The Topkapi Palace is set in a beautiful garden. At one time more than 50,000 people lived in the complex attached to the palace.
We entered into the Topkapi Palace through the Gate of Salutations which was built in 1524.
This is a Russian coat of mail - Turkey had close relationships with Russia in the 17th century.
Look at the intricate detail on the entrance to the Council Chamber. For 400 years, sultans sat here with their advisors to rule the country.
And this is a close-up of the detail of the Gate of Felicity which lead to the throne room - the workmanship amazed us!
The library housed more than 25,000 books and was built in 1719. We liked the seats they used while reading the books.
The paving between the various buildings impressed us too.
This is one of the connecting passages between the buildings.
The Summer Pavilion had a secondary use - ouch!
However, perhaps the beauty of the tiles diminished the pain??
The Baghdad Pavilion (1638AD) is one the last examples of classical palace architecture - the mother of pearl inlay is exquisite!
We all appreciated the view from the palace over the Bospherous.
In the Treasury of the Topkapi Palace we saw the most amazing jewels. Even crystal jugs made from one piece of crystal. No photos allowed!! The Spoonmaker's Diamond was the size of these chestnuts! Wow!
En route to the Blue Mosque we passed this fountain which gushed in different patterns.
Can you see the six minarets (towers) of the Blue Mosque? As the mosque in Mecca was supposed to have the most minarets, the sultan donated a seventh minaret to Mecca's mosque!
The Blue Mosque has blue stained-glass windows and blue Iznik tiles - hence the name.
During prayer time no visitors are allowed.
The carpet on which believers kneel for prayer.
From this point of view, we could see 4 of the 6 minarets of the Blue Mosque. Isn't the roof structure beautiful too?
Then it was time to have supper - just look at the size of the bread which is served before supper - don't worry - it's hollow!!
For supper I had an Aubergine dish - delicious!
Mrad had mutton - very tasty.
We were suprised when a street fight broke out - stealing customers is a serious offence! Chairs (used in defence) were smashed with large sticks (used in attack)!
That evening we went to a symphony concert which was held in Aya Irini (Haghia Eirene). The church was dedicated in 360AD. Thus making it the oldest church in Istanbul. It was never changed into a mosque (like most of the other churches).
The church is only open when concerts are held.
It has wonderful acoustics and we enjoyed the Schumann that was played.
What a wonderful end to our first day in Istanbul!
The next day we met this beautiful street cat sitting calmly on her/his Turkish carpet - Wieske was most impressed!
Here are some impression of Istanbul as we drove towards the ferry to take a Bospherous trip:
a wooden hotel building
some wooden houses
People relaxing next to the Bospherous.
A Roman aqua duct (2nd century) in the middle of Istanbul.
We boarded our ferry
and set off along the European coast of the Bospherous.
We were overloaded with information about all the sights we saw, so here are some impressions of the trip:
No - it's not the same one as above - it only has three minarets!!
A passenger liner that we passed.
A beautiful Ottoman mosque (only two minarets)!
The new city of Istanbul.
This is a part of the Dolmabahce Palace (built in th 19th century to compete with European buildings!)
The Bospherous Bridge is one of the world's longest single span bridges.
The European "Thracian Castle" marks the gateway to the Black Sea
and on the opposite Asian side, the "Anatolian Castle" (with the flag) also serves as the gate to the Black Sea.
This estate was donated to Istanbul on the condition that its property was never developed - hence the large green area/park surrounding it.
The last historical building on the Asian side: Beylerbeyi - a summer palace built in the 19th century in spite of empty coffers!
We disembarked and were driven to the Golden Horn were we walked up the hill to see the view - see the graves which date from the Ottoman times? Only important people were/are buried here.
The view brings many tourists to the Golden Horn.
Turkish coffee for you?
Down, down down .. . by fenicular to street level and the waiting bus.
Turkey's gardens seem to reflect their carpet tradition.
This structure (?!?) stands at the entrance of the Egyptian Spice Bazaar.
Some impressions from the Spice Bazaar:
Dried figs! Mrad's favourite.
This sweet (type of Turkish Delight?) is sliced!
Pickled grape leaves?
Dried tomato?
Dried tomato?
No - we'll have "doner kebab" (sliced meat piled into a bun) - delicious!
Where are our wives?
Shopping, of course!
Shopping, of course!
Mrad solved the "problem" by doing some "market research"!
That night we set off on our south-western Turkey trip at midnight by bus.
Saturday 2010.06.12, the bus stopped at big bus stations for the necessary "body breaks".
The Turkish country side impressed us.
All the fields we passed were beautifully manicured.
We arrived at SELCUK and walked to our hostel.
This is the "reception" room where we had our welcome drink - Turkish tea! Or Nescafe coffee?!
We rented a car and set off - this was the first place we visited.
Seven persecuted Christians hid here, fell asleep and woke 200 years later to find that Christianity was the official religion - well ... that's the story ...
Then we saw the Meryeman statue but did not enter the church, House of the Blessed Virgin).
Instead we had lunch at a traditional Turkish restaurant:
Ayran = thin yoghurt drink, and Gozleme = enormous pancake, folded into a square, filled with cheese/meat/spinach), baked over fire - delicious!
Ayran = thin yoghurt drink, and Gozleme = enormous pancake, folded into a square, filled with cheese/meat/spinach), baked over fire - delicious!
And then went swimming at the Pamucak beach! [c=ch]
The next morning we set off to the Dilek Peninsula National Park (to counteract the tourism effect).
We were most impressed!
But a large part of the park is off limits (possibly due to the proximity of Samos, a Greek island)? No arguing with the Jandarma.
Fortunately, the beach offered shade
and swimming in crystal clear water (no waves) to counteract the heat.
Then it was time to visit Ephesus (established 6000 BC).
Even in those days they had mile stones with red lettering.
Even in those days they had mile stones with red lettering.
Apparently, sarcophagi were manufactured at Ephesus.
We preferred Harbour Street which was lined with shops en route to the harbour (in the good old days)!
25,000 people could sit in the theatre (built by the Greeks). The Romans held gladiator contests in the arena. Today, music festival are presented in the theatre.
This statue of Epistome (Knowledge) is one of four statues in the facade.
Kouretes Street - Andy (not the ancient priests) looking towards the library.
Mrad standing at Hadrian's Gate (113AD).
Guess what? Probably built in 400AD. Public lavatories. Running water removed the waste.
Hadrianus Temple was dedicated to Emperor Hadrian (118-138AD).
Mosaic floor in houses of the wealthy. Used in 1st to 7th century - many had heating systems below the floor!!
The Fountain of Trajan (constructed 102-114AD) - double storied!
The Gates of Hercules (figures of Hercules chiselled on the pillars).
Isn't she beautiful? She's survived the test of time!!
Imagine walking down this street under shaded porticoes (supported by these pillars) with this view over the valley.
The Odeon (2nd C) - civic meetings were held here with 1400 people attending!
We left Ephesus totally overwhelmed.
The Temple of Artemis was our next port of call.
Imagine - this lonely pillar (with storks nesting on its tip) represents one of the seven wonders of the ancient world!!
That evening we watched the sun set from the top of Homerus Hotel in Selcuk.
And enjoyed a wonderful typical Turkish dinner.
On 2010.06.15 we set off to Pamukkale. This is a photo of a typical small town which we passed.
Even in Pamukkale, 2010 World Cup Soccer was big business.
That afternoon we were taken to a government weaving place.
Virgin women are trained - some can knot 1 million silk knots in a square meter. their fingers fly!
Before you buy you must check the quality on the back of the rug.
We would have bought, but our backpacks are so small ...
On the way home we visited a typical textile shop.
Next we stopped at the local Imam's secondhand Kelim shop - here was serious temptation. The carpets were all authentic!
On 2010.06.16 we took a morning tour to Pamukkale (the white slopes) directly next to ancient Hierapolis (on the top of the mountain).
No, we're not fixtures - just passing by! Hierapolis was levelled by an earth quake in AD 17. It was rebuilt and flourished as a spa in the 2nd and 3rd centuries.
Mrad climbing out of an ancient Roman family's tomb. The cemetery has more than 2000 sarcophagi!
This tortoise's family probably knew ancient Hierapolis!
A tumulus in which ancient kings were buried with the enough supplies for the journey to the netherworld.
The ancient Roman Basilica Baths which even had showers (see our guide's hand position?)
The Domitian Arch is the entrance to Froninus Street from the cemetery.
This is an ancient oil/wine press - fascinating!
Just next to the entrance is the public toilet recently rebuilt by the Italians.
The North Byzantine Gate at the other end of Froninus Street.
Part of the water supply system to ancient Hierapolis.
Then we reached the upper section of Pamukkale - Cleopatra is said to have bathed in water from this source.
We visited the Hierapolis Museum - this is a fine statue of Isis.
All the exhibits came from the Hierapolis site - incredible to think of the splendour of more than 2000 years ago.
This is an amazing statue of the sea god Triton.
Wieske thought this 4000 year old earthen vessel would look great in her garden.
We climbed the hill to the theatre and passed the cave of Plutonium in which we could hear the poisonous gasses bubbling.
Isn't this bird beautiful?
And the theater is magnificent.
Then we passed the Sacred Pool and drank some of the "healing" water from the fountain.
We walked down the slope past the man made pools (an effort to save Pamukkale).
Only bare feet are allowed - the stones made it sheer hell walking down!
But the beauty of the water running over the limestone walls of the "Cotton Castle" made it worth while.
And we were very sorry that we did not have time to swim in these man made pools.
Then we visited the Red Spring - the deposits are red and 60 degrees Celsius hot water gushes out of the spring. Amazing.
That afternoon we left Pamukkale after a satsifying morning.
We spent 4 hours on the bus to Fethiye as this was where we were going to board our boat there.
This was one of the houses that we passed - it's totally tiled instead of painted!
We travelled through beautiful mountainous country.
Just look at the terraces built to anchor the new young trees.
Once we had traversed the mountains, we entered this beautiful countryside which reminded us of the Bushveld in SA.
The fields were beautifully cultivated.
Teatime! Compliments of the bus company.
Donkeys are still used in smaller villages.
We arrived at Fethiye at 8:30pm and we were ennchanted with this view from ur hotel window across the harbour.
The next day we did very little. Walked through Fethiye harbour (RSA bo!!),
and ate pizza for supper.
Our last breakfast on land (for 4 days and 3 nights!).
All aboard!
And for the next four days and three nights we did nothing but eat, swim, eat, swim, sleep, eat, swim ... and some dancing to Turkish music!
These are some pictures of our trip:
Gozlemer for anybody? Freshly baked on the boat!
Oludunez beach.
Butterfly Valley - only reached by boat!
Can you see the tents pitched on the beach?
Supper time!
Man maar dis die lekkerlewe!
This where we anchored for the first night. Idyllic!
Kalkan's harbour.
The water is incredibly blue.
We swam around this island.
We spent a lot of time lazing around on deck.
And anchored at the coastal village of Ucagiz for new supplies.
We walked through Ucagiz to the Lycian necropolis of Theimussa to see the rock-cut chest-type Lycian tombs possibly dating from 1400 BC.
The village Ucagiz has a traditional charm with its small backstreets.
That evening we were served chicken - cooked on a braai on the boat!
We met this lady who spends the whole day sitting in her boat doing the finest crochet work imaginable - what a life!
We sailed passed a Roman-Lycian sunken city which was destroyed in Byzantine times by a vicious earthquake.
Just the outline of the house remains against the cliff. Imagine life here 2000 years ago before the earthquake.
These steps were not meant to disappear into the sea, but led down to a lower part of the city which now lies beneath the sea.
Our next port of call was Kale - the ancient Ottoman castle of Simela with its crenellated ramparts jealously watches over Kale.
We climbed up to Simela (Kalekoy) castle - our boat patiently waited below in the harbour.
The Turkish flag is ever present.
A small Greek theatre hides within the parameters of the castle.
Just look how blue the sea is!
Can you see the path that is worn to the lone Lycian sarcophagus standing on the right in shallow water?
Our view from the deck cushions.
The famous Pirates Cove would easily swallow our boat.
Lunch!
Another lazy swim.
Our last night on the boat.
And the next day we disembark at Andriace harbour.
To visit Demre where St Nicholas is said tobe the origin of Father Christmas.
St Nicholas's statue in front of the Noel Baba museum.
We were bussed to Olympos and passed through the Poros Mountains.
We were impressed by the beauty of the mountains.
First we travelled up the mountains, then down to the coast at Olympos where we stayed in Tree Houses = houses in the orchard!!
This is where we relaxed among the orange trees.
After supper we took a tour to the small hill at the back of Cirali. Here fire belches permanent flames from small fissure in the rock!
The following day, 2010.06.22, we visited the site of ancient Olympos.
Near the Temple on the necropolis, these sarcophaghi in a cool grove witnessed of an age long past.
This "Monumental Grave of the Port" was Captain Eudomos' last resting place.
The mountains which enclosed the ancient town of Olympos next to the sea.
And the seaside where we four had our last swim together.
Now it was goodbye to Wieske ... Dankie vir 'n heerlike tyd saam!
And goodbye to Andy ... julle is twee sterre!
We travelled to Antaya to catch busses in the direction of our further travels.
A final sweet goodbye ...
to our young friends, Jaedah and Pascale who gave us the Cotton Candy,
To Andy and Wieske who enriched our Mediterranean trip endlessly ...
And to us who celebrate life and rejoice in the Lord's love!
These are our arrangements to get home. But there is still a lot to be done and seen before that. The next installment starts soon.
*2010.08.12 Later in the same day, fly from Madrid via Cairo to Jhb. EGYPTAIR. Depart @ 15:45 to Cairo, flight MS754. Depart Cairo @ 00:45, flight MS839 to ORT (Jhb).
*2010.08.13 Land at ORT @08:00 - Vrydag.
Weer eens - dankie dat ons weet julle bid vir ons en dat julle "saam" met ons toer. God Bless You All.
Mrad and Inge
1 comment:
Ongelooflik! wat 'n belewenis.
sien die baard is af, gedink jy gaan kersfees vader wees wanneer jul terug is. Geniet dit! baie liefde
Yvonne
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