2010.05.19-29 Ten days of heaven with Hester and Paul

 

We arrived at Grasse and were met by Hester and Paul. We are eternally grateful to them not for only hosting us, but for caring for us by organising a docter for Mrad's bronchitis and a dentist for the extraction of the tooth which gave him hell on the Camino. 


Each day they also prepared special French / Provence dishes for us to eat (accompanied by special French wine). We had many insightful chats about French culture, politics and economics and Hester and I took many trips down memory lane. They also drove us to many interesting sights/places in the neighbourhood.


This was the epitome of a 'holiday' - a time to recover from the effort of the three Caminos and the 1614km through the Southwest of France. (Ja-nee mense, toer is nie vir sissies nie!)


We felt very close to heaven here in Le Haute de Treille, Chateaneuf-de-Grasse.


Here are some pictures to put you into the picture.


The food:

Paul hard at work preparing a masterpiece.                                                               

Our hosts - wining and dining us!

Hester's creativity made cooking a pleasure. 


















 

This is an amazing appletart.

A pancake rolled up with an omelette and served with lentils - Mrad enjoyed it!

Mrad and Paul discussing braai techniques.

French chops.

The Pissaladiere - one of Paul's masterpieces! All you need is flaky pastry, fried onions, anchovies and olives - and the know how!

Hester's artichokes in the process of making - the end result was delicious!

Special wine at each meal.

Now which cheese should we eat? Young goats' cheese, medium goats' cheese or matured goats' cheese? On the otherhand, mature sheep's cheese from Corsica is devine or should we buy some Cows' milk cheese?

A total stanger offered to take a photo of us!

Just look at the selection of sausages!

The fishmonger hard at work - we bought tasty mackerel.

Glace fruits at the market in Nice - do you recognise the prickly pears?

Two types of artichokes and courgettes with flowers attached. The flowers are covered in a light dough, deep fried and eaten immediately - delicious!

Olives, olives and more olives!

Guess what? Liquorice root!

A typical Nice sandwich.

The menu is brought to the table, propped up against the wall and left for discussion by the patrons - and we had an in depth discussion.

 

Paul and Hester's favourite restarant in Nice - Merenda.

One of Hester's masterpieces: Tarte Tatin (wallnut in flaky pastry). Don't worry - I have the recipe!

A welcome cup of tea in a Monaco resaurant.

This was one of Paul's treats: sausage stuffed with tripe! Traditionally served with chips.

One of Hester's many teapots all of which we used often.

Try some of my rabbit?

The rabbit up close - truly delicious!

Let the feast begin!

PLACES WHICH WE VISITED:

GOURDON (waar hul seun sy troufees gehad het).

Die restaurant en uitsig oor die omgewing.

Hester, Paul en Mrad kyk uit oor die Grasse/Nice area - in die verte is die Meditereense see.

Die Maandagoggend mark by PRE DU LAC, a suburb of Chateaneuf de Grasse..

San PAUL-DE-VENCE - nog 'n Middeleeuse dorpie.

An old church which has been converted into a restaurant.

Inge, Paul and Hester - part of the tourist parade?

An interesting statue with an interesting price tag!!

An alley in St Paul-de-Vence.

The view towards Nice from the old ramparts.

The pebbled walk ways.

A typical Provence roof.

And on Tuesday 25 May, we went to NICE.

This is the "La Baie des Anges" (Baai van die Engele) net buite die stad Nice.

A typical Italian building which reflects the period in Nice's history when it was under Italian rule. (Crooked due to the fact that the picture was taken from the passing car!)

Nice's market.

The typical style and ochre shades of most buildings in Nice.

One of the arched walkways leading to the sea side.

The 'jet setters'(?) on the La Promenade des Anglais.

Can one call this a beach? Perhaps a pebble beach? But it's the most beautiful blue ...

Narrow streets.

Squares with cozy coffee shops.

And an excellent lunch at Merenda - yes! That's the menue!

Hester and Paul have been coming here for 30 years!!!

Place Messena is famous for its red colored buildings.

A fountain on Place Massena - can you see us?

Back home at Le Haute de Travailles.

And on Wednesday, 26 May, we head for MONACO.

Second (only to the Vatican) the smallest state in the world - better known to some of us as Princess Grace Kelly's home.

A bay en route.

The old fort in the old town.

A view over the Monaco harbour towards the new town.

The original Grimaldi who masqeraded as a monk to maliciously enter the fort and seize the city in the 13th century. Princess Grace Grimaldi's son, Albert the second, still rules Monaco today!!

The present Grimaldi's palace.

A street in old Monaco.

The church where the Grimaldi's marry and are buried.

Inside the church.

A bay which formed due to land which was reclaimed from the sea in order to enlarge Monaco's territory.

The thickness of the fortress walls - no wonder Grimaldi had to use trickery to enter the fort!

Monaco is a beautifully manicured state.

A glimpse of a Mediterrean bay on the way home.

An evening view from the top of the hill (the house) where we stayed.

A visit to GRASSE (perfume Mecca of the world) - this was Thursday's itinerary.

Aren't the crooked street and the russet hues of the buildings beautiful?

Tired? No - just waiting for the women to do their window shopping!

A typical scene in almost any of the towns we passed through.

We visited the Fragonard perfumerie - this is the outdated way of transferring the scent/oils of jasmine flowers to porc fat - part of yesteryear's technique!

Nowadays the "swan's neck" plays an important role!

And this is the "organ" where the "nose" creates new perfumes. An experienced "nose" can recognise up to 3500 different smells!!!

Grasses' plaza fountain.

All French town have a memorial to the dead of the wars French soldiers fought, but the one in Grasse is particlarly imposing.

Grasses' Notre Dam de Puy Cathedral dating from the 12th century.

The cathedral's doors made from walnut wood date from 1721!!

The cathedral boasts an enormous Jean Honore Fragonarde painting "Washing of the feet" from 1754.

And three Rubens paintings (also enormous). This is "St Helene". It's awe inspiring to see such masterpieces!!

The nave of the church - the French word "nef" refers to the ancient wooden ships' shape (which I'm sure you can see?).

The view from one of the terraces in Grasse across the southern part of the French Alps.

An ornate street lamp embelished with Grasses' emblem.

Sunset across the Mediterrean from Paul and Hester's dining room window.

We travelled to ANTIBES on Saturday, 29 May.

Behind the palms you might be able to see the old fort. Antibes was founded in 500 BC (!!!) and in its chequered history belonged to the Greeks who referred to it as Antipolis - the jewel of the Mediterranean.

The old fort walls are one of the many tourist attractions.

Of course - we have to have a break from the stresses of tourist life!!

The Antibes Saturday market - it's like walking through an antique shop.

Guess in front of which shop this sign was displayed?

A view towards the bay.

A French wedding party.

The old fort which is presently the Antibes Picasso Museum.

Home sweet home!!

The lower part of the garden.

Our room was conveniently on the lower level.

One of Hester's creative yet deceptively simple entree - delicious!!

One of Paul's super dishes!!! Perfect because it was really rare!

WHAT A SUPER EXPERIENCE!!!
Thanks to Hester and Paul who opened not only their home to us, but also their hearts!

2010.05.30
BARCELLONA - here we come (on the 23:59 bus!!!)